Fashion history

As I have been researching the twenties and how it was the time when women gained rights to explore fashion, I decided to do a brief look at the sixties and how like the Jazz era, women became more independent. A designer from the time that helped the idea progress was Mary Quant. As the designer of the first mini skirt, she allowed women to wear short skirts and dresses without being objectified, but instead make a statement in fashion history. What I really like about these photos is the confidence these women display. For my final photo shoot I may have the model dress with an influence of the twenties but in a position that is similar to the photo of the right or current fashion adverts out. If I do this I hope I can display the idea of does fashion nowadays allow women to be more independent or are they used to sell brands?

"Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power."Pierre Berge

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Figure 1 Unknown author. 2012. Mary Quant from new cross to blackheath. [Online]. Available at http://transpont.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/mary-quant-from-new-cross-blackheath-to.html

Figure 2 Abi Stephenson. Mary Quant's mini skirt: A mini history. [Online]. Available at http://www.mookychick.co.uk/indie-fashion/vintage/history-of-the-miniskirt.php

Paper illustrations

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Even though I didn't want to make something like the paper designs for my final piece, I then decided to see what they would look like as illustrations. I thought If I transformed the designs into patterns it would help me discover what patterns I want to use further on in the project. One of the pieces I really like was the green coat. I like the idea of using a bright colour such as yellow for the pattern as it stands out against the darker colours that I want to use. However, this is not the only reason I like this part; I find the sharp, square shapes really add an art deco feel to the item and therefore my original style is noticed.

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Pattern designs

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A project we had to participate in during a lesson was to cut out a shape and repeat it. Once this was done, they had to be pinned together to create 3D shapes. I decided to use the shape I have been looking at for a neckline as I thought I could experiment with using it for different pieces. I thought that If I looked at using necklines as influence for other structures. As someone who doesn't really focus on unusual shaping, this has helped my perspective on fashion design and my skills develop. Although I don't think I will use any of the pieces I created in the future, I am now not afraid to try things in fashion, regardless if they turn out well.

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Stand designs

To begin my understanding of designers view on the 20's, I did some stand work. I focused on necklines as I find this is a huge part of the changing fashion of the time. Neck lines were high and covered as much as the torso as possible, but as the new era of women became apparent, neck lines became round, low v necks and even the sleeves matched these; they involved less material providing straps and off the shoulder appearances. I think I am going to focus on square necks as I find this is a strong style both from then and the present. I drew some flats below in order to gain a vision into what the necklines could look like when combined with the 20's style. I like some of the styles but equally dislike some as I find the shapes loose the classic influence and become bland.

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Rough sketches

To begin the project, I want to understand basic shapes and styles from the twenties so that when I start altering this, I have a base to work on. I have used a black, fine tip pen to get the most simple outlines of items of clothing (mainly dresses and tops). Although they're basic, I want this to help me focus on what shapes are recognisable from the 20's.

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Mood board

This is my first mood board for my final project. I used images from the 20's, costumes and current runways. I wanted to show similar aspects in all these fashions but at the same time show contrasts. I have included photos of women's swimsuits being measured and also runways which display crop tops and Victoria's secret. I aim trying to pay attention to how much flesh can be shown when fashion is included. I want to work out the line between freedom and advertising.

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The V&A

At the V&A museum, there is currently a few items of clothing from the 1920's. I wanted to see these in order to gain a first person view on clothes from history. The main items were drop waist dresses and mid heel shoes. Something I noticed that was a common element in all dresses were the details. I feel this is extremely important for my project and final piece as it enables people to recognise the time. Embellishment and embroidery are some of the main elements of the era and although I may combine styles from a different decade, including strong details will provide my piece the historical feature that is needed. One of the aspects of these clothes that surprised me however was the colours. The bright, colourful shades made me think how much womens fashion changed since the start of the decade to the twenties. Once wore structures, bland clothing to now wearing sophisticated, loose dresses, women were now more independent and fashion was a huge part in developing this idea. I am excited to explore this era as even though it is already my favourite time in history, I'm hoping to learn more about the era and how it has changed the perception of women. 

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Research

To begin my project, I began to look at styles from history and how they have evolved. Here I have focused on the shapes of women's clothing in the early 20th century. The figure was very tight around the waist, the necks were extremely high and the shoes covered the feet to the ankle so that no skin was seen. I then demonstrated the fashion of the 1920's that completely contrasts the opposite illustrations. The sheer fabric and loose fit allowed for women to become more independent in what they wanted to look like. They could dress in boy fitting clothes and show flesh (without sheer fabrics or not). This is something I want to focus on when I'm looking at present fashion as sheer has been frequently used in 13/14 style.

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Final major project

For my final project I am looking to base my work on the first major change in women's fashion: the twenties and modern fashion. I want to research into how this was a time when liberation in women's style was appearing and they were allowed to wear what they wanted without the restrictions of society. Dropped waists were introduced, corsets were gone and hair was cut short. A common thing about the past fashion and modern style is the amount of flesh shown by women. In latest s/s14 trends, brands have been using mesh and cropped tops in their designs. I am going to research into historic styles, current trends and how in modern day, are things designed to provide women with the freedom they gained in the 20's, or are they created to sell brands.